Archive for the ‘Amed’ Category

Black rice pudding

It was a dark and stormy night. Rain lashed our cliffside villa while the thunder rolled ever closer and the wind huffed and puffed; we were glad to have the house built from bricks rather than the bamboo cabins at Eka Purnama next door.

The weather had subsided by the morning and we filled up on breakfast downstairs – it’s probably the heartiest breakfast we’ve been offered anywhere on our trip, not counting those ‘all you can eat’ buffets. We gave the ‘black rice pudding’ a try today, overcoming any squeamishness at the inevitable thoughts of black pudding to discover a hugely filling dessert made from layered coconut cream and cooked black rice topped with a sprinkling of brown palm sugar. In addition to this we tackled more delicious slabs of toasted home-baked bread with cinnamon or local strawberry jam as well as one big bowl of chunked fruit to share. I suppose this feast is designed to set up guests for a full day’s diving or snorkelling around the Japanese wreck that’s located just off the shore here.

Cinnamon toast.

Black rice pudding.

We had a couple of hours to spare after breakfast so Ellen watched a Korean animated film called ‘The Reef’ in which a nasty shark is lured into a swarm of Portuguese Men o’War with agonising results. Only the jellyfish were the wrong colour – pinkish instead of blue – as any six-year-old round here will tell you. Meanwhile Hannah doodled in her sketch book, working on her latest fashion creations.

We lugged our luggage down the steps to be ready for our 10.30 taxi and were surprised to be met by a different driver rather than Ketut again. Something to do with a trip to hospital and a sick relative. Or did Ketut just subcontract the job? There’s a board across the road advertising our journey for 20% less than we arranged with him the other day. [It’s a real shame when you end up questioning just about every story you hear.]

We had been on the road for two minutes when I realised that I still had the room keys in my pocket. A quick trip back to Baliku to drop them off and then we were on our way, with a brief shopping stop in Amed for water and snacks to get us through the journey.

Amed silversmith – souvenirs!

Anyway, our new driver got us to our destination safely and comfortably via the coastal road that loops north and then west from Amed, even though the road itself deteriorates for the second half of the journey. It’s all pretty untouristy along this stretch, barring the diving outfits in Tulamben (where there’s another wreck), until you get to Singaraja – which means ‘Lion King’ – and immediately beyond to Lovina where we shall be staying for five nights.

We found our boutique hotel and were shown to our villa. Yes! At last we have two bedrooms connected internally! Though the advertised ‘kitchenette’ turns out to be a kettle and a toaster. It’s the nearest we’ve had to a proper apartment since we left Australia, thanks to the separate living area that joins the bedrooms. There’s even Disney Channel (much to the delight of the girls) although today they seemed to be broadcasting in Indonesian and English simultaneously.

We crossed the pool to the restaurant to claim our Welcome Drinks (banana and pineapple this time) and to get a late snack lunch. It’s another overpriced outfit, but this one doesn’t have Baliku’s redeeming feature of really good food. The sandwich was unappealing (dry lettuce and fatty ham) while the ‘trio of dips’ was reduced to a duo thanks to an avocado shortage putting paid to the guacamole. Was the price reduced accordingly? Course not.

Then it was swim time. The pool separating us from the restaurant is uniformly deep in the main section; I can just about stand up there but the rest of the family can’t. The girls found a woggle each to help them float, and I chaperoned them every time they left the safety of the shallow crescent at the far end.

This hotel is relatively busy (i.e. compared to Baliku where we were the sole remaining guests); there are many Western couples as well as a German family with one boy (a bit older than the girls) who snorkelled around the pool.

We came out of the water to dry off and have a biscuit; we then walked the noisy main street in search of an ATM. We found three, but the first two refused to communicate in English – even after selecting the desired language – so we had to make do with one that dispensed only large-denomination 100,000 Rupiah notes. (Lonely Planet claims that this equates to a week’s wages, while also stating that the average family has a disposable income of 40,000 Rupiah per day – some mistake, surely?)

By now it was time for supper, and we chose an ‘Italian’ restaurant (well, the Balinese husband and wife owners have worked as chefs in Italian eateries in the south of the island). The carbonara was a darn sight better than the other spaghetti dishes we have tried in Bali while the pizza was nicely crisp. Hannah loved the (non-packet) tomato soup, despite the fact that she won’t touch an uncooked tomato. Astonishingly, there was no ice cream on the dessert menu, but when I enquired the husband offered “I can get some for you”. The girls were presented with tall glasses each with the emptied contents of two tubs of the cold stuff, presumably from the family freezer (they have a young son).

We returned to our Permai Suri villa in the dark, did diaries and flopped out early. Even the adults are struggling to stay awake past 9pm, and this does not augur well for our readjustment to European time (7 or 8 hours behind). We should be trying to stay up as late as possible so that a midnight bedtime here translates to an early night back home; at this rate we’ll be keeling over just after lunchtime once we return…

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Tooth no. 3

We all ended up having an early night yesterday and I slept pretty solidly from 9pm until just gone 2am. I imagined someone (one of the girls?) knocking on our door and as Tim still seemed fast asleep I didn’t want to wake him by opening the door. Unfortunately, I did need the bathroom and on my return popped my head outside to find… nobody. I must have dreamt it!

It took my quite a while to get back to sleep as I kept wondering whether the girls were alright. I’ll be glad when we move on to our family villa in Lovina where we should all be in one and the same building.

The girls assured me they had slept quite well and we all tottered down the steps for breakfast. We could have it delivered to our rooms but we preferred eating outside and admiring the view.

Breakfast was absolutely delicious! Ellen started with homemade bread and jam, whilst the other three had cinnamon toast (also homemade bread). We all agreed it was the tastiest toast we have had in a long time. This was followed by cornflakes for everyone and three huge bowls of chopped up pineapple, banana and watermelon. The grown-ups washed this all down with extremely tasty Bali coffee. I’m already looking forward to tomorrow’s breakfast, but I think we’ll order slightly less as it was too much for us.

We quickly returned to our room to pick up cameras and headed down the road, this time turning left as we reached the street. Yesterday I spotted some shops on the way to our hotel and felt like exploring before it got too hot. However, soon after we set off it was clear that the shops were quite a long way away and without a motorbike or car it would take us too long in this heat.

We returned to our rooms to cool off and the girls watched “Bee Movie” by the makers of Shrek, before having a plunge in the swimming pool. Tim had decided to sit out, but the girls each took turns to do some very good swimming. Ellen attempted her usual style and breathing without stopping, Hannah had a fantastic go at front crawl, backstroke and breaststroke. She finally seems to have got the hang of breathing and gliding when swimming breaststroke.


Alongside the pool is a bar area with three barstools in the water. The bar is out of use at the moment, but we noticed a couple of baby swimseats in there which the girls wanted to use as floats. Tim kindly went to get one and passed it to the girls, but in doing so he really badly crashed his head into the roof (which was extremely low). He ended up with an angry red stripe and bump on the right hand side of his head and another swelling on his forehead. Fortunately there was no blood, but it did hurt an awful lot and he ended up holding a cold towel on his head for quite a while.

Around midday we left the pool and got ourselves ready for lunch. We only wanted something small and decided to try out the restaurant next door. Tim was delighted to find apple cider on the menu and ordered it, but instead was offered apple juice. He declined and disappointedly opted for a soft drink instead.

Between the four of us we shared vegetable spring rolls, a tuna salad and a triple sandwich. The owner and her young daughter explained that at the moment this area is very quiet and that July and August are not only the hottest months but also the busiest ones. From the terrace of the restaurant we had a beautiful unspoilt view of the sea and greenery. Absolutely stunning! As Tim pointed out, we do have a lovely garden at home – but where’s the sea?

The afternoon was spent reading and writing diaries (girls) and carefully and gently cutting Tim’s hair (me).

For supper we headed across the road again to the Maharasta cafe where the grown-ups had pancakes and the girls shared delicious homemade chicken nuggets and chips.

Yesterday, Ellen mentioned that one of her upper front teeth was wobbly and earlier today I noticed it was pointing back a little more. During supper she kept accidentally biting it on her bottom teeth and was beginning to get really annoyed by it. Suddenly she stopped chewing on her chicken and dryly announced “I think my tooth has come out” and promptly spat it out on her plate. No fuss, no blood! She ended up with a beautiful big gap, as children ought to have when losing their teeth. She’s going to take it back home and then put it under her pillow for the tooth fairy to come and collect it.

Back at the hotel the girls had another bath and plenty of reading time before bed. It had started raining by now and a member of staff phoned us to let us know he was going to bring up two umbrellas. What a service!

Tomorrow we’re moving on to our very last long stay accommodation of the trip – five nights in Lovina before three days of travel on our way back home.

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Help! I’m a fish

It’s all clear now. In Bali we’re not cash cows or I.O.ewes; we’re fish. Hook, line and sinkered fish.

For a people long accustomed to living off the fruits of the sea, deception comes easily and persistence is a prerequisite for success. The more attractive the lure the better, but the cruel hook is always there. Nor will the fish simply jump into your boat; you need to go out there and reel them in.

Perhaps this explains why you walk through the market and rayon is sold as silk, cheap and flaky plate is guaranteed solid silver. Truth doesn’t have a place here; it’s all about the catch. And that’s why they think that shouting louder and pestering you more will increase their chance of a sale.

So now we appreciate our true place in the animal kingdom, it’s a matter of avoiding being caught, wriggling off the hook or – if all else fails – biting back.

This morning we took our sunrise boat trip with Made, departing in the 6am dark and returning when the day was already getting too hot for us at 8 o’clock. He trailed a long line with a three-inch silver fish as bait for barracuda, giving it to me to hold (so we pay him for the privilege of assisting him…) but no luck. After motoring up and down the coast he cut the engine and fed out another line with flies and hooks at regular intervals (the regularity is vital once you start winding it in and want to avoid lacerating yourself). In the wine-dark sea we saw nothing but pinpoints of blue light glowing like LED Christmas decorations, presumably small luminescent fish near the surface. But the fish we were after didn’t feel tempted to get caught today. The Swiss family saw him catch four yesterday; today’s haul of four was merely our good selves, and tourists must pay considerably better than fish.








Made called to his fellow fishermen as we floated in the peace of the bay, as well as chatting to us in broken English. His education finished after elementary school (aged 11?) and I assume he has been fishing ever since. He has two children, a boy and a younger girl, both still at elementary school, but uniforms are expensive for the next stage of education.


The sea was dead calm and the twin bamboo poles of the outrigger stabilised the craft magnificently, even when Made clambered out onto one pole to unwrap some black polythene that had become entangled in the propeller. [The girls call these ‘spider boats’ from their general ‘jizz’, even if they have half the usual number of legs.]

I learned something as we watched the sun come up. Something I should have known before, but it took the awesome (not in the US sense) reality to hammer it home. The rays of the rising (or setting) sun – created by the partial masking of clouds – are clearly straight lines emanating from the sun in the centre. However, this is entirely down to perspective; these rays do not really diverge but in fact trace parallel lines through the sky, the ‘railway track’ effect making them appear to converge on their solar focus. Most strikingly, as these parallel rays pass overhead, they then reconverge to a point on the diametrically opposite horizon – something I have never noticed before, and something so counterintuitive that it brought me up short. Here are the photos to show it.


and reconverging.

We returned to our beach (the girls held the trailing line, but still no success), paid Made his 100,000 Rupiah fee and went for breakfast. Except all three tables were taken – just our luck when we’re starving… So we stayed in our rooms for a while to do some more packing before squeezing around a single table next to the Swiss family. We chatted awhile – they are flying out on Bali on the same day that we leave, albeit later in the day so we probably won’t see them at the airport. We then adjourned to the pool to cool off and pass the time before our mid-day pick-up. I settled up for our two nights, but we got a very poor exchange rate for paying in Rupiahs rather than in Euros (a 20% surcharge, effectively). Still, we should have enough cash left to see us through the next two days until we reach Lovina.

We had to check out of our room by 11am so we spent most of the next hour sitting in a beachside Bale (thatched hut with no walls), doing very little but relishing the beautiful location and scenery. “It’s a tough life” may have passed our lips as we gazed out across the Bali Sea from our shady spot.

Our driver arrived 15 minutes early and the journey was only short so we were soon at Baliku Boutique Resort, at the more remote end of the strip of villages along this stretch of coast. The first thing we noticed was the never-ending flight of steps leading up to our villa. (Later, Kirsten counted 73 steps.) Fortunately, we were given assistance with our bags, but we should get fit nipping down to the pool, down to breakfast, etc.

Our villa was not quite what we expected. Yet again the girls are in a separate room with no connecting door, but we are at least in the same building as them, an outdoor lounge (with TV) sitting between our bedrooms. Yes, it’s all very ’boutique’ with cavernous bathrooms, posh washbasins, frangipani blooms, candles and incense sticks everywhere. And the view from our perched balcony window is one of the best we’ve had over the past ten months, looking down to the pebbly shore with outriggers beached along its entire length, looking up to the lush green volcanic hills with local houses dotted around.

We descended the steps for our welcome drinks (watermelon) and lunch at the overpriced restaurant; the sort of place where you immediately look for the least expensive food items on the menu and see how far you can stretch them, while vowing to find somewhere better value for the remainder of our stay.

After lunch the girls watched ‘Enchanted’ (there is at least a good DVD and book collection here) before we all tried out our latest pool. This one is a serious rectangular job (they’re into diving in a big way here), and Ellen can only just stand on tiptoes in the shallow end. But we got plenty of shade and enjoyed cooling off in the water before emerging for tea.

Ah, tea. It’s like the Ritz or the Raffles downstairs, pricewise, so we crossed the road and found a warung on the beach (I’m still waiting to find an Eddie Warung…) where we could gorge on fruit pancakes and milkshakes without emptying the wallet – remember, there are no ATMs for another two days.

After deciding to have supper here as well, we casually asked what time they closed. 6pm?! A tad early, and it was already 5 o’clock. So, time for a brisk stroll down the street to explore the village and to work up an appetite.

We got the impression that the locals don’t often see a Western family on foot here, and everyone called out ‘hello’ from their front yards as we passed by. No sales pitch or ulterior motive, and the local children seemed especially excited to see our girls.

We returned along the beach – more boulders than pebbles, once you’re there – and Kirsten’s ‘Birkenstocks’ finally disintegrated. One large family was sitting in front of the boats, throwing rocks at a bamboo target by the shoreline; a sort of Balinese boules? They paused to let us pass, trying out their limited English as we walked in front. (“Hello”, “Where you from?”, “Wher you going?”, “Where you stay?”, “How old?”)

Back at the Maharasta Warung (thematic emphasis on the ‘rasta’) we ordered fish and chips for the girls, a fish curry for me and fried rice for Kirsten. The fish was certainly fresh, and one of the staff was about to go snorkelling with his harpoon to restock.

It was dark by now, so we climbed the 73 steps to Bedfordshire (with time for a boutique bath for the girls) to recover from our early morning start.

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This is more like it

At last – we’re getting the Bali we hoped for. It’s taken us two weeks to find it, but here in Amed we have a quiet location with simple rooms that don’t pretend to be any better than they are, just metres from the beach with a tranquil sea view (no speedboats or jetskis, just traditional fishing vessels). We are surrounded by more locals than tourists and if a stranger greets you it doesn’t necessarily mean they want to sell you something. The warung next door undercharged us for last night’s meal, but we pointed out their oversight. The imposing view of volcanic Mount Agung is mercifully unscarred by hotel blocks or mobile phone masts (no reception here). This is more like it.

Our journey here yesterday was inauspicious; there was a lingering dampness to the day, we passed a sign advertising ‘Spa for MICE’ [apparently it is a contrived acronym for Meetings, Incentives, Conferences, Exhibitions] and the Michael Jackson CD compilation included that song written for a rat, ‘Ben’. But so far the weather has been gorgeous and we have remained rodent free. The Swiss family warned us about bats, but we’ve only seen geckos (and we quite like them).

I woke just after 6am and thought I’d take a peek outside to greet the new day. A glorious dawn igniting the unclouded slopes of the volcano and dazzling the outriggers making their way back from their night fishing. A hen and her chicks pecking in the black sand around a beached craft; what do they find there?




I returned to bed to get a bit more sleep, then we all rose around 8am to have pancakes for breakfast (banana or plain) along with the usual fruit platter or juice. Then we grabbed our snorkelly bits and crunched down to the sea. The sand is gritty and the larger stones give your feet a hard time, but once we were afloat we had no trouble seeing many hues of coral, schools of fearless fish.

I still can’t get on with the snorkel mask and breathing tube; my moustache allows water to creep through the seal and up my nose and I always get brine in my mouthpiece, too. Should I go for the Amish look and shave off my ‘tache? In the end I went back to using swimming goggles and holding my breath, just as I did on Tahiti.

The others fared better with the equipment (this time the mouthpieces were at an ergonomically friendly angle) and saw plenty of sea life before the girls decided that they had had enough for now and opted to return to the hotel pool. There they spent much of their time wearing their floaty orange lifejackets; Ellen found this ideal for swimming and breathing (a novelty for her) and it also gave her the confidence to try swimming on her back without fear of going under. Hannah wore hers as a giant nappy or else reclined on it like a li-lo; not sure how much proper swimming she did…



We emerged to dry off, change and look for lunch. The cafe here is limited for choice, so we went back to last night’s Warung Bobo, stopping to buy some more Factor 30 sun block beforehand. Two tuna sandwiches and a mixed (but unmixed) salad filled us up reasonably healthily, then it was time for a rest in our rooms while the sun did its extra-heaty overhead stuff.

View from our bungalow.

Just before 3pm one of the cleaners knocked on the door to say that her husband was back from fishing to discuss our trip tomorrow. At breakfast we had seen the Swiss Family Robinson returning from an early-morning boat trip which they thoroughly recommended; they arranged it through the cleaner, thereby getting a better rate than they would receive by booking through the hotel. So we made discreet enquiries and arranged a clandestine meeting on the beach with Made, the fisherman. [We have now met the complete set: Wayan the commission-led Celuk tour driver, Made the boatman, Nyoman the lady who showed us the way to the laundry and Ketut the commission-led Ubud-Amed driver.]

Anyway, Made will meet us at 6am tomorrow for a sunrise trip lasting a couple of hours – we’ll then have time afterwards for breakfast and packing before transferring to our villa just down the road. It sounds like the girls can even have a go at fishing, which they’re keen on at the moment…

After this sneaky assignation we had our second and final sea snorkelling session. The tide had gone out a fair way and we only just cleared the coral as we made our way out from the shore. But we were rewarded with several cobalt blue five-armed starfish, some nearly a foot across, shiny scatterings of little metallic blue fish which like to hang out in hollows in the sea bed, sturdy beige growths like bracket fungi, vertically flat fish striped yellow and black. Ellen spotted a two-foot-long eely thing as well as a ‘patchwork’ yellow and blue fish. Coral came in vivid green, red and blue. The water was beautifully clear and the fish didn’t seem to mind us invading their space; perhaps they know that we snorkellers are mostly harmless.

About ten minutes later we returned to the beach, but we all picked up grazes or small cuts on the way as we negotiated the coral shallows with some difficulty – you can’t really walk and you can’t really swim. Lesson for the day: don’t go out at low tide.

We spent at least another hour in the swimming pool playing with lifejackets, snorkels and fins before returning the kit and showering. We visited Bobo for the third time for a sunset supper (sunset not as spectacular as last night’s), somewhat marred by an out-of-tune pairing of a bamboo flute and a bamboo xylophone; ‘keep music live’ is all very well, but there comes a point where ‘do not resuscitate’ is the kindest option.

Gecko on light.

Then back to base for diaries and an early night for the girls – we got them in bed before 8pm, which hasn’t happened for a while. Kirsten had a near-Proustian moment when she sniffed the clean sheets and was instantly transported back to a house in Antwerp where she used to babysit years ago. “I don’t know what I’d do without my sense of smell”, she mused.

Alarm set for 5.30am. Ouch. Better sign off for now.

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Parting gift

Again a broken night, apparently the phone in the girls’ bedroom rang several times in the night. Ellen phoned us up at half past midnight complaining, so we suggested she’d take the phone off the hook. I don’t think either of the girls had much sleep and they were still pretty tired this morning.

View through our window.

After breakfast they rested watching a DVD called “Robots”, while we carried on with the packing. We left the girls in their room and settled the bill. Tim had a rough idea of what 10 nights in Ubud should come to and he was pretty close. They had charged us for the minibar, but when we explained to them that we had only moved the beers and water out of the fridge to make room for our milk and the girls’ juice and after a member of staff checked that everything was still there, they quite happily adjusted the bill in our favour.

Just before Tim finished signing all the receipts, they handed us a present! What? After all our complaining? It was a beautiful painting of three Balinese dancers in black/grey tones. We promised them that once back home we’ll frame it and find a nice space to hang it.

Around 10.45am we headed down with all our bags and waited for our driver from Amed to collect us. Shortly before 11am (our agreed time) he turned up. Ketut seemed a kind and gentle driver and was initially full of information.

We stopped briefly in the town of Gianyar, as Ketut had some errands to run. While we waited in the car, a young lady holding a baby knocked on the windows begging for money. She kept walking around the car and knocking on all the windows, I found it quite intimidating.

Heading further up north we passed rice fields bordering the road and small valleys full of banana trees and other greenery. We also saw more shops selling clothes, shoes, household items, etc, more directed to the local population as opposed to tourists. I also noticed several stalls selling 1.5ltr bottles of “bensin” or petrol.

Rice terraces in the rain.

We had asked to go to Amed via the scenic route, but Ketut wanted to take us a different route through the mountains instead of through the valley of Sidemen (to take us to an expensive restaurant with a nice view of the rice terraces where he would get his 10% commission). He eventually agreed to change his plans to accommodate us (rather than vice versa). We had driven on a little further when Hannah desperately needed to get out of the car and only managed to do so in time before she was sick. After this we asked Ketut to take us to Amed the quickest way. The weather was grey and wet, the mountains covered in clouds and we wouldn’t have enjoyed any scenic mountain or valley views anyway.

We moved Hannah into the front of the people carrier and Ketut put on a Michael Jackson CD. I found him to be a considerate driver as he slowed down and was careful on the windy roads. By now it was raining harder and several motorbike riders pulled over to the side, lifted up the seats of their bikes and pulled out their rain covers. Others weren’t so fortunate and ended up pretty soaked.

By the time we reached the village of Candidasa Hannah had perked up again. We decided to stop for a light lunch. Ketut dropped us off at a particular place that did offer meals, but at huge prices. We declined and explained we just wanted something small. He drove us a few metres down the road to a different restaurant that was slightly cheaper, but didn’t offer small snacks. He then suggested we should drive on to Amed which was less than an hour’s drive from here. We quickly popped into the shop and bought some Pringles and plain biscuits.

Shortly after 1.30pm we arrived at Kembali Beach Bungalows. Before saying our goodbyes to Ketut, we arranged for him to drive us to Lovina (our next destination) on Friday, as he is a good driver and he offered us a reasonable quote.

My first impressions of Kembali: it’s peaceful and pretty quiet. There are only about 7 or 8 bungalows and we booked two neighbouring ones with an interconnecting walkway. Our view is of the ocean and is pretty impressive. The verandah is enclosed by bamboo blinds and it makes you think you’re all alone. It’s lovely and the girls like it too. The rooms have a double four-poster bed, a bench and a wicker chair. The bathroom is spacious and stylish, with a huge walk-in shower.

We dropped off our bags and headed to the small restaurant. No huge meals here, only breakfast and small snacks until 8pm. We ordered some jaffles, a sandwich and a plain pancake (for Hannah). We took our time digesting our lunch and admiring the view. Before leaving we ordered some snorkelling gear for tomorrow.

The girls were desperate to get in the pool, but first we had a walk along the shoreline. The black sand takes some time getting used to. Later on Tim went in the sea to find out if it would be worth going snorkelling tomorrow – it looked promising!

The girls and grown-ups had a good time cooling off in the pool and it was well after 5pm when we came out. We got changed and had a very light snack (Pringles) before walking down the beach to the nearby Warung (or restaurant) to check out their menu. We enjoyed the sunset and admired the view of the sea, mountains and orange glow.


Back at Kembali we tried on our fins for size and also asked for two life jackets for the girls. The lady then dropped them off at our bungalow, whilst we walked back to the warung. (Incidentally, we bumped into a Swiss family we had met earlier at Taman Harum cottages in Ubud during our first two days there. It was lovely to see them again and catch up on each other’s travel plans.)

The girls and Tim ordered fish and chips and I chose mie goreng (fried noodles with chicken and vegetables). The fish was very fresh and extremely tasty. The waiter told us that if we didn’t like the fish, we didn’t have to pay. He sounded pretty confident that we would like it!

It was pitch dark by the time we returned to our bungalows, so decided to walk along the road. Once back there was enough time left for the girls to update their diaries and then it was time to settle them for the night. I reckon they were both pretty tired and I hope that the soothing sounds of the sea will send everybody to sleep quickly.

Our one and only full day here at Kembali tomorrow and all we have planned is snorkelling, snorkelling and snorkelling (and maybe swimming in the pool as well).

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