Another relatively peaceful night, apart from some semi-distant noise well after the curfew time. We surfaced at 6.30am in order to have a rapid breakfast, pack and get a taxi to Lavender Street, managing to leave Costa Sands by 7.55. Never, ever to return, if we can help it.
En route we passed other boxy Toyota taxis just like our own, each shaped like a child’s drawing of a car. One advertised a website on the rear of the vehicle: catchcheatingspouse.com.
We reached the bus station by 8.20, in ample time for our 9am departure.
In due course we were called over for boarding; nice wide, plush seats with imitation walnut armrests and the all-important air conditioning. We found ourselves a block of four seats, although our ticket seat numbers bore little relation to the reality. A nearby coach also bound for Malaysia enthused ‘Mesmerise in its splendour’.
Away through the metropolis, a curious mix of hothouse foliage and high-rise architecture. We passed the Big Wheel (or Singapore Flyer), which outdoes even the London Eye, then made our way north towards the causeway linking Singapore to Malaysia. Time to reflect on what Singapore does well; four good ideas came to mind, where someone has clearly thought long and hard about what is needed.
One: the deposit system for MRT (tube) tickets, so you get $1 back for returning your pass at the end of the journey. This virtually eliminates litter and enables more costly ‘smart’ cards to be used which merely need to be waved over the barrier to let you through (no moving parts to go wrong).
Two: the simple but effective use of LEDs on the station map inside the underground trains; green shows stations served by the train in question, and red indicates the next stop. No more wondering which branch line the train will take or relying on counting down the number of stations until your stop.
Three: the Downtown East car park has displays to show how many spaces remain on each level. No more aimless driving around each floor – go straight on up to where the gaps are.
Four: the ultraviolet readmission stamps at Wild Wild Wet. Much harder to forge, and your elegant, tanned limbs aren’t spoiled by an ugly smudge of ink. Might look pretty cool at the disco, too…
As we neared the perimeter of the city the lanes diverged with some for cars and others for ‘Bas, Lori, Teksi’. We all got off with our passports to check out of Singapore. A sign urged us to be friendly to the border staff; if only they would reciprocate.
Causeway between Singapore and Malaysia.
On the bus, across the causeway and then off again to be stamped into Malaysia (after hurriedly filling in the usual forms – they didn’t pre-issue them on the bus like they do on the plane), as well as an X-ray scan of all our bags. So by 10.15am we were in the ninth country of our trip. An immediate change to endless tropical greenery stretching away on either side of a nearly-deserted three-lane motorway. Few signs of habitation, but a string of toll barriers to impede our progress (they’re the stop-and-pay type, not the electronic whizz-through ones).
A stop for the coach to refuel (diesel costs around 32p/litre here) which doubled as one of the two loo stops. Then on up the highway towards Kuala Lumpur and Melaka, passing roadside advertising hoardings which tantalised us with our first glimpses of Malay. SUDAH POTONG? asked a bloke brandishing huge garden shears near a coily telephone cord. A packet of something edible boasted BERAS WANG! And several advisory roadsigns concluded with the evocative MEMOTONG; clearly an indispensable tool for removing those pesky Post-it notes. A sheer ice wall of language offering no footholds or handholds to get started. Even the few Rosetta Pebbles strewn around the coach (No Smoking, Please Keep Clean) offered no help.
We arrived at Melaka Sentral Bus Station an hour later than we expected, at 1.30pm. After withdrawing RM500 from a cash machine inside a 7-11 within the station, we took a teksi to our hotel in the centre of town; RM15. (You divide by 5 to convert to sterling, more or less.) The driver was chatty, recommending what sights to see, and he gave me a free map at the end. The plan was then to check in, dump our bags and then have a well-earned rest.
Which is what we did until Hannah came to the upsetting realisation that she had left her Peruvian bottle-holder on the coach, underneath the seat. Not again… We piled downstairs, got another taxi back to the bus terminal, this time with an Indian driver, Nathan Krishnan. He too was keen to enthuse about the highlights of Melaka (e.g. the Chinatown market tonight and tomorrow night), and when we explained the reason for our journey he took us straight to the bus company’s booth, talked to the man there, got the phone number of the bus driver (because he had left for Singapore twenty minutes earlier) and rang him up. He even offered to chase down the bus to retrieve the holder.
But sadly the driver was adamant that nothing had been left on board when he had checked at 2 o’clock. We explained that the bottle might have rolled into a far corner, but we got nowhere. Our taxi driver then insisted on getting a smile out of Hannah, philosophising that a loss like this was not important in comparison to having good health, and that we should be grateful to Hannah for giving us this learning experience, and next time we will check more carefully. (Like we said after Ellen left hers behind…) And we explained that it’s not an object of value, but it’s so useful and seemingly irreplaceable outside South America, as well as having sentimental value as an integral element of our trip; it’s been everywhere with Hannah.
We rounded up the taxi fare a significant amount in appreciation of Nathan’s time and assistance; we realised we couldn’t have done this much ourselves, and that there is little more that anyone could have done to retrieve the holder. By this time it was after 3pm and we still hadn’t had lunch, so we walked down our road to a bakery where we chose a tuna croissant, a chicken curry puff, a chicken pie, an apple pie and a cheese stick, along with two soft drinks. (It all came to a bit under £2.50, or less than one Singapore coffee.) Also an ice cream at the end, to cool off and to raise our spirits.
Back in our connecting rooms we had a bit of a rest while Kirsten typed up her blog notes for yesterday. Just before 6 o’clock we got ready to explore Chinatown and its street market, following the rave review it got from both our taxi drivers. We walked down Jalan Bunga Raya to the town square with its Stadthuys (the Dutch got here in 1641), then across the bridge to the main market street.
They were just finishing setting up the stalls, and what an overwhelming cascade of sights, sounds, smells for the senses! So much to take in, and so much more appealing than the many street markets we have seen in our travels. A relaxed, safe atmosphere, and the place was not flooded with tourists (such as ourselves). I don’t know what many of the edible items were; even when labelled, what is ‘sea coconut’? But we later tried a few random nibbles and all were utterly delicious. Spring rolls of such crispness, succulence, consistency and flavour that they redefine spring rollness for ever. A fruit kebab dipped in chocolate and sprinkles, not ‘here’s one I made earlier’, but freshly assembled and dunked to order. (There was even a tomato in there, despite the saying that ‘knowledge is realising that a tomato is a fruit; wisdom is not putting one into a fruit salad’.) And a selection of flavoured sausages; lemon, anyone? Though we stuck with the ‘original’ for the girls.
Apart from the amazing arrays of eats, we browsed shoe displays to find flip-flops for the girls. Hannah got an embroidered, soft-soled pair made in Thailand, and Kirsten found some ‘Birkenstocks’ (‘made in Germany’) for only £6. (Forgive the skeptical quotation marks, but if they’re German then so am I..) They’re comfortable, anyway, and at that price easily replaceable if necessary. Ellen is still looking; she would prefer a size 7 with turtles on, but we haven’t yet found those two attributes combined.
When lightning flashed cartoon-like in the sky to the north, we began to make our way back to the hotel, getting there just as the rain began in earnest. Showers and baths all round to wash off the stickiness, then a good rest with no need for an early start; they serve breakfast until 10am.
Yes, our first impressions of Malaysia are positive. The people are ever so friendly, thoughtful and accommodating (for instance, if they’re blocking the pavement they’ll actually move out of the way if they see you coming) and there’s a heady blend of traditional cultures alongside all the modern conveniences (there’s even a Tesco opposite the bus station). It’s still a shame about Hannah’s bottle-holder, which we are still convinced is on that coach – the driver must be from Singapore…